Metres from the shore, thousands of lobsters are migrating below you. They cover the seafloor, traveling in rows on their way to conceive more delectable babies. You are in Maria la Gorda. You are in the westernmost tip of Cuba, a honeymoon for divers.

You are staying in an enchanting log cabin tucked between lush foliage. Nearby you can hear the rolling waves and whispering palm trees. Crabs scurry. Wild birds soar. An island breeze feels like a tropical kiss against your skin. You are in paradise. Your toughest decision is, 'Should I dive with steel or aluminum tanks today?'

The waters of Maria la Gorda, where coral walls thrust to great depths, are strictly protected as part of the national park. As a result, you can mingle with abundant sociable fish. The most famous fish is Lola, a friendly 300-pound goliath grouper. She sometimes follows you. Other times she likes to lazily rest on the sand under coral ledges.

You can take a plunge into any of the 50 dive sites located only a two-minute boat ride away. You'll find spectacular, jutting walls reminiscent of the Cayman Islands. At one site, Paraiso Perdito, you can swim along the top of a reef at 66 feet and then follow the sloping wall to 100 feet. Wild bouquets of colorful coral intertwine with tube and basket sponges. Lobsters and crabs inhabit crevices and intricate holes. Neighbors include tarpon, snappers, surgeons, black durgons, small groupers, and many types of angelfish. Crystal clear visibility extends at least 150 feet.

Do not be surprised to encounter sea turtles swimming near the pastel shores of Maria la Gorda. They nest here every year in plentitude-partly due to Cuba's priority to protect them. The Center for Marine Research in Havana conducts ongoing conservation and education programs on this peninsula.

Elsewhere in Maria la Gorda you sometimes can see whale sharks skimming the surface where krill and tuna school together and sea gulls hover. In the fall and winter months, these elegant sharks migrate all along the southern coastline of Cuba.

All of these treasures are just steps away from the convenience of your divers' village in Maria la Gorda. Although it was built in 1990, you'll notice that much of the structures are brand new-thanks in part to last year's hurricanes, Isadore and Lily. You can salsa dance with the locals at the open-air bar; listen to live music under a thatched-roof patio; or enjoy an intense sunset from a tranquil hammock. Genuine smiles and local amistad (friendship) emanate the premises.

The village is located inside Ganacabibes, a 74km national reserve park where more than 90% of the endemic trees and animals of Cuba live. The ones found in this area are special to Cuba like the native jutia. You can easily spot them meandering through the brush because they resemble a mix between a raccoon and a cat.

Whether you're flipping your dive fins skyward or enjoying a smooth rum-runner on your private beach, one thing is clear. Life just doesn't get much better than this!

Written by Amy Houghton, author of the Diving Guide: CUBA SCUBA. For more details go to www.cubascuba-thebook.com

Photos by Manuel Mola Pedraza