It was every sailor's worst nightmare. Our boat was surrounded by dozens of black-tip reef sharks. Their sleek, golden bodies sliced effortlessly through the crystalline water just beneath the surface. Round and round they went in their ceaseless orbit as we stood transfixed at the gunwales, lost in our primordial imaginations.

"They seem hungry today," observed the divemaster as we suited up. I was well aware that they fed these sharks practically every day and that there was little risk involved for the divers, but I took my time getting my gear together, just in case. I didn't really want to be the first one in the water today.

Our fears were for naught. When we entered the warm water the sharks spread out into a wider circle, leaving us plenty of room. Now joined by a couple of larger, more robust gray reef sharks, they continued circling us like an ominous carousel of toothy steeds. Rapidly filling the inner circle were hundreds of gorgeous reef fish, along with several very large remoras and one giant Napoleon wrasse. The hungry fish quickly determined who was bearing the aromatic canister of fish heads and entrails they so eagerly desired and soon surrounded the divemaster. When the divemaster began pulling out chunks of fish the sharks closed with unbelievable speed, determined to get their share. The smaller fish were left competing for what few scraps the sharks dropped during their hasty exits.

The show lasted only as long as the food held out, then the sharks resumed their distant patrolling. As we began a leisurely exploration of the reef, the ever-hopeful reef fish swam along with us, still favouring the divemaster. He was often enveloped in a kaleidoscopic cloud of fish, leaving us with just an occasional glimpse of his head or fins.

A very large variety of hard corals made up the reef. Along the way, we found a few large anemonefishes, their brilliant colors advertising the locations of their anemone hosts. Domino damselfish used stands of antler coral in much the same way, floating above it until we approached, then taking refuge in the branches of coral.

I've spent a large part of my life in search of the elusive "Paradise", and I've found a little of it in a lot of places, but now I've found a lot of it in a few little places: the Society Islands of French Polynesia.

Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea are the famous ones, and have probably appeared in more movies than Bob Hope, but the neighboring islands of Huahine and Raiatea are also blessed with that wealth of tropical beauty so generously distributed about the South Pacific. Paul Gauguin recognized this incomparable beauty and used his considerable talent to introduce it to the rest of the world via his paintings. After spending a few short days there, I could easily understand how the mutiny of the Bounty came about. I didn't want to go home either.

Most of our diving time was spent on the reefs of Moorea, an island that has often been likened to James Michener's mythical island of Bali Hai. We took a ferry from Papeete, Tahiti, arriving just as the sun was disappearing behind the island's majestic volcanic peaks. The taxi ride to the hotel was wondrous, passing mountain slopes covered with pineapple plantations, through pastoral villages, and skirting the palm-lined shores of Cook's Bay-where Captain Cook never set foot-and Opunohu Bay, the site of Cook's first landing.

Moorea's most popular dive is Le Tiki, where shark feedings are accompanied by hordes of reef fish and one or two Napoleon wrasses. Most of the sharks are black-tips in the three to five foot range, but larger gray reef sharks often make an appearance. Less frequently seen but not uncommon are lemon sharks. Similar shark feedings are done at Opunohu, just outside Opunohu Bay and at the Shark Dining Room. Napoleon Plateau is a good site for Napoleon wrasse sightings, and leopard rays, nurse sharks and schools of jackfish are often encountered at Toatoi Pass, which is a drift dive.

The rest of our diving was done off the sister islands of Raiatea and Tahaa. Located 220 kilometers northwest of Tahiti, the islands share a common lagoon inside a coral barrier reef. There are eleven passes through the reef, and many of the dive sites are in or just outside the passes. Each pass is different, with one featuring red corals while the next may have an abundance of golden-yellow corals. High energy shark feedings are also offered here, and the reef fish are just as numerous as on Moorea. Commonly seen fish are dogtoothed tuna, barracudas, surgeonfish, triggerfish, snappers and leopard rays.

The Society Islands are a snorkeler's dream come true. At many hotels, one step beyond the dock will put you into a realm of rainbowed reef fish and lush growths of hard corals. At one of our favorite hotels the rooms were actually suspended above the coral reef on stilts, with a window built into the floor so that you could view the living reef without even getting out of bed. Barrier reefs that surround the islands protect the lagoons from the open ocean, providing calm, gin-clear water for snorkelers of any level of experience.

Polynesia's verdant volcanic islands, tranquil turquoise lagoons, white sand beaches, warm crystalline water and perfect weather have long made it a popular destination for honeymooning couples, but it has much to offer for any visitor.

Tahiti, the largest of the islands, is also the most heavily populated. Papeete, the capital, has grown into a sprawling city with not much more than its shopping to attract tourists, but the rest of the island is typical South Pacific paradise. Still there are the same perfect beaches, towering volcanoes, sparkling waterfalls and valleys filled with lush tropical vegetation that so inspired Gauguin.

Huahine is noted for its wealth of archeological sites. Maraes, stone constructions that served as outdoor temples of worship, are scattered all around the island. Stone fish traps placed in the inlets centuries ago still catch fish for the descendants of their builders.

Tahaa, Raiatea's sister island, is world-famous for black pearls produced in the small pearl farms that dot its lagoons and bays. Many of the pastoral island's residents make their living growing vanilla in Tahaa's rich volcanic soil. In an effort to preserve their island's natural beauty and peacefulness, residents have resisted the building of resort hotels on the island, opting instead for a few small eco-tourism oriented pensions.

I had hoped to find time to visit the legendary island of Bora Bora, but it didn't work out. The best I managed was a tantalizing view of its precipitous, cloud-cloaked volcanoes on the far horizon. I could only dream of diving with the manta rays they say frequent the island's fabulous reefs. Guess I'll have to go back.

FRENCH POLYNESIA'S
SOCIETY ISLANDS

By Dan Holden Bailey

(689) 661249, FAX: (689) 663308.