Two tubes provide different reproduction sizes (1:1 on the left and 1:2 on the right). By stacking the two tubes together and using the framer located at the centre of the image, you can achieve 2:1 reproduction ratio.
A Nikonis camera, 35mm lens, 1:1 extension tube and Ikelite Substrobe 50.
The Ikelite Aquashot camera and its accompanying close-up lens kit (lens and framer).
Sea & Sea Motormarine camera with a 1:3 macrophotography lens.
Many years ago, when we took our first underwater photographs, we were disappointed by the results. We used a Nikonos camera equipped with a 35mm lens. After taking more of the same, we decided to try macrophotography, rather than wider angled 35m lens pictures, and a miracle occurred. The very first roll produced crisp and well lighted images. The colours had a natural look and at least two or three subjects were worth enlarging. We had learned a great lesson: for a beginner, macro is the way to go.
The kiss principle
Diving is a technical endeavour and photography only adds more technical problems. As a beginner, you should concentrate on easier "assignments" in order to hone your skills. In short, you should kiss: Keep It Super Simple, as Jim and Cathy Church wrote in their photography books. For a newcomer, the easiest form of underwater photography is definitely the macro or close-up work.
What is macro?
Macrophotography designates pictures taken at an image/subject size ratio larger than 1:6 (one to six). In this ratio, the first number refers to the image size on film and the second number represents the subject's life size. For example, a 1:3 ratio means that a subject measuring three inches in length will show up on film as a one inch image.
The usual ratios used in macro work are 1:3, 1:2 and 1:1; the latter being known as life-size reproduction. A 2:1 ratio represents an image that is twice life size.
In macrophotography we use either special lenses, add-on lenses (known as diopters) or extension tubes.
With a Nikonos camera, extension tubes are the cheapest and most convenient method to perform macro work. If you have a Sea & Sea camera or the Ikelite Aquashot, special add-on close-up lenses achieve the same result. Nikon also sells a close-up lens for the Nikonos.
As simple as 1-2-3
Taking good macro pictures involves little technical knowledge and the results are almost guaranteed.
1- The installation of extension tubes or close-up lenses is a straight-forward operation and the manufacturer's instruction manual should give you enough information on this matter.
2- To take a picture, you have to put your subject in proper focus. This is very easy since you usually work with a framing device. With adjustable focus cameras, you either set the lens at the closest range or at infinity, depending on the instructions of the manufacturer.
3- For proper lighting, the strobe is positioned between 6 and 12 inches from the subject and the aperture is set at f/22 or f/16.
Once you have completed the above operations, it is simply a matter of positioning your subject flush with the outer part of the framing device and pushing the shutter release button. (With cameras such as the Nikonos or the Motormarine II-EX, make sure your shutter speed is compatible with your strobe lighting and that your strobe is set on TTL.)
Great results
Start with stationary subjects and a small ratio system such as 1:3 or 1:6. Use ISO 100 print film and make sure you do not move when you push the "trigger". These instructions are easy to follow even for the less experienced photographer, yet they deliver good results with the first film. In turbid waters, macrophotography is probably your only option.
Experiment first
Nobody would go diving without first developing and practising the needed skills in a pool. The same applies to photography. A little time invested in a pool test saves a lot of aggravation when you pick up your developed film.
So, before venturing in the wild, borrow a couple of plastic toys from your kids or your dog and jump in a pool. Use different colours and shapes and vary your lighting angle (strobe position).
Note the essential information such as the type of film and lens used, the aperture setting and the flash-subject distances. After processing, look at your images and write down the settings that produced the best pictures.
Off to a good start
Even if we plan to cover macrophotography in more details in a future article, this brief introduction contains everything you might need to produce pleasing results.
Most people begin by taking diver or fish portraits. Quite often they do not like the results and discouragement settles in as they spend more film. Macro represents an easy starting point that produces rewarding results.
There is also a side benefit, macrophotography forces you to look for critters that you would otherwise ignore. As you will see there is a whole universe living within the limits of a small framer.