Diving Sharm el Sheikh by Ivana Ostoic, NAUI #31397

The Red Sea was formed some 25 million years ago when the African and Asian continental plates started to move apart. It is believed that the origin of the name is either because the seawater has reddish tone during the proliferation phase of the red algae Trischodesmium erytraeum or, according to others, because of the red coloration of the surrounding rocks.

The Red Sea is one of the most biodiverse seas in the world, with more than 1000 species of fish and over 2000 kilometers of fringing reef, and Sharm el Sheikh, at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, is generally considered the best diving location, due to the proximity of the Ras Mohammed marine park as well as being close to the Thistlegorm, probably the most famous wreck in the region.

We traveled Sharm in May, as from May to August is said to be the best season for diving with sharks and mantas.

Strait of Tiran
The Strait of Tiran is the narrow sea passage between the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aqaba. Between the Egyptian Sinai and Saudi Arabia, it is enclosed from the west with the Sinai Peninsula and on the east by the island of Tiran. In the middle of the strait are numerous reefs, all named after English geographers who made the first nautical charts of the region.

We dove at Thomas and Gordon Reef as the two most typical reefs of the region. The current is always strong, because of the constantly present wind. But due to current divers can always enjoy not only numerous forms and different species of corals but also they can be sure there will be plenty of fish, including barracudas, mantas, and sharks.

Thomas Reef
Thomas Reef is considered to be one of the most spectacular diving sites of the Red Sea. It is a perfect place for drift diving as there is no point where a boat can anchor. We started our dive on the southern side of the island and proceeded toward east, following a fabulous wall. The wall ranges from 10 to 35 meters (33-115 feet) in depth where it opens in a splendid canyon, which goes to greater depths. The most interesting part for divers is between 12 and 35 meters (40-115 feet). You can admire many different colors of soft and hard corals, which are covered with flocks of fish such as barracudas, breams, fusiliers, masked butterfly fish, which always come in pairs, or Red Sea banner fish. It is common to see parrot fish, Moon wrasse, Black-spotted grunt, Coral and Moon Grouper, and many others. With a bit of luck you'll be diving with sea turtles as well.

Gordon Reef
Gordon Reef is the last reef in the strait of Tiran, and yo can easily locate it because there is a red and white colored lighthouse on the southwest corner. On the north side of the reef lies the wreck of il Lovilla (Lullia). As there are fixed mooring buoys this site is easier for diving than the rest of the reefs in the Tiran. You will enjoy the many different corals, but maybe even more alluring are small nudibranch snails that can be found in the shallower parts of the reef. The site is suitable for snorkeling as well.

Local Dives
The generic name "Local Dives" is used for all diving sites that are situated to the north and south of Naama Bay, between the Strait of Tiran and the city of Sharm el Sheikh. In this Local Dive zone there are about twenty diving sites, all close to the shore and in the vicinity of the hotels. The currents are weaker than the currents in the Strait of Tiran, and marine flora and fauna are also quite different. Usually there are fewer or no sharks to be seen, but you will see huge Napoleons, sergeant fish, parrotfish, and many others.

Shark Bay
Shark Bay was the first diving site we visited when we did our first trip to the Sharm some ten or so years ago. The site can be easily accessed from shore, and it took us less than half an hour from our hotel to arrive. This time we discovered a brand new resort just in front of the reef in the place where there was once only a beautiful sandy beach. Contrary to its name, Shark Bay is not the place where you go to see sharks. It was once a site where local fishermen used to bring their catch of the day, and in those days there were obviously lots of sharks. Anyway, it is still an ideal place for your first immersion in the crystal blue waters of the Red Sea. The underwater terrain gradually goes from two down to 18 meters (6-60 feet) of depth. The site is crowded with fish: groupers, butterflies, banner fish, angelfish, goatfish, parrotfish, and of course many, many corals.

The Tower
The Tower is a really spectacular diving site. It is characterized by the presence of a deep canyon, whose steep walls drop vertically to 120 meters (400 feet). Access is possible wither by boat or from the shore. A classic diving tour starts from the beach of the bay at the point where there is a huge madrepora skeleton visible from the shore. If you are making a boat dive, it is also easy to enter because a "shamandura" (fixed buoy) marks the spot. A couple of meters into the dive you will come to the entrance of the canyon with two small caves at the depth of five meters (16 feet). As you proceed towards greater depth, you arrive at a sandy plateau between 12 and 15 meters (40-50 feet) deep. Here you can enjoy numerous species of fish, corals, and nudibranches. If you continue further the canyon descends to even greater depths, which is not recommended unless you are diving on mix and you are a tech trained and experienced diver.

Ras Umm Sid
The name Ras Umm Sid is from the name of one of the great lighthouses that marks the entrance in the Strait of Tiran. Ras Umm Sid can be easily accessed from the shore. The entrance point is eastward of the lighthouse, just in front of the el-Fanar Restaurant. Immediately upon immersion you will come to a forest of gorgonians. Deepest points range from 14 to 25 meters (46-82 feet). There are numerous specimens of lionfish and parrotfish swimming around, as well as several species of groupers. At the depth of five meters (16 feet) is a cave, characterized by a "curtain" of glass fish. Here you can often encounter barracuda, tuna, and sometimes smaller sharks.

Ras Katy
Ras Katy is further south from Ras Umm Sid. It is a great place for beginner divers or check-out dives as it
s easily accessible and the current is very weak, but the marine flora and fauna are interesting. It is also great for snorkeling and night diving. The site starts at five meters and descends slowly toward 16 to 18 meters (53-60 feet), where there is a plateau and a small drop off. Here you can find some gorgonians. Anthias and butterflyfish can be found in abundance.

Ras Mohammed
Ras Mohammed is a national park situated around the Ras Mohammed Peninsula. The east side of the peninsula is made of a coral-skeleton barrier, which protrudes above water and extends under the water for a couple of dozen meters (about 75 feet). The only beach in the area is Aqaba Beach. To the south there are three beaches: Shark Observatory, Main Beach, and Yolanda Beach. Next to them is Mangrove Channel, which divides Ras Mohammed from Mangrove Island, so called for the numerous mangrove trees that grow there. Further west the land becomes more sandy and low and leads towards the only anchorage in the zone, called The Quay.
The peninsula itself is privileged in its geographical position because from the open sea an abundance of plankton washed in, which results not only in rapid growth of the coral but also in an abundance of other marine fauna.

Eel Garden
The Eel Garden is situated in front of a small sandy beach, and it can be approached either by boat or by land. Currents are usually weak, but there is always some wind, and waves are present. The dive itself is easy so it is suitable for beginners. Start from the beach, and in the central part of the bay you will come to the eel garden itself-a colony of shy garden eels. As you try to come too close, they will pull into their holds and hide in the sand, but if yo keep a distance you can observe them as they swing to and from in the crystal blue waters. As you proceed further east you will find drop-off at the depth os 35 meters (115 feet). In the Eel Garden, you can always encounter numerous smaller and bigger fish.

Shark Reef and Yolanda Reef
The last two dives we made were on Shark Reef and Yolanda Reef. Shark Reef is probably the most famous and the best known diving site of the Red Sea because of the fantastic underwater landscape and its rich marine fauna. In the area you can do a dozen drift dives, each one different, but as we didn't have that much time we did only two.
Shark Reef stats with iron beach a half meter above the surface, it gradually goes down towards 30 meters (100 feet), and then there is a sudden dropoff to 700 meters (2300 feet). As you fin along the edge of the blue abyss, you start feeling the immense greatness of the big blue that surrounds you-a completely different world from what we know. A few meters above the drop-off there are flocks of smaller reef fish, soft and hard corals, and nudibranches, each involved in its own daily struggle for life. And here you can see the big predators: barracudas and sharks, controlling their territory. Amidst all this life, you begin to feel how insignificant and small we are-just tiny pieces in the grand web of life.
If you follow the edge of the wall, you'll shortly reach the sandy plateau that connects Shark and Yolanda Reef. Here you will find the remains of of the wreck, Yolanda, that lies between 10 and 25 meters (33-82 feet). Mixed with the corals are containers, sanitary equipment, bath tubs, cases of whisky, and an BMW 320, all of which belonged to the captain of the doomed ship. Between the wreckage parrotfish and Napoleons can be seen, as well as many species of angelfish, wrasses, unicorn fish, flocks of grunt and anthias, butterflyfish, lionfish, and more. It is an unforgettable dive.

Epilogue
We dove in ideal conditions; the water was warm, the visibility good-sometimes excellent, and marine flora and fauna abundant. Unfortunately, we did not have time to go to Thistlegorm, but next time, don't worry, we'll go there.

Sources - Second Quarter 2006 copyright 1996 NAUI. All rights reserved.

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